We get a head start on spring in Morocco—but not along the usual tourist trail around Marrakech.
In February, the journey goes to the capital: the coastal city of Rabat, known as a calm and sophisticated destination, with wide avenues, royal palaces, historic landmarks, fewer tourists, and a more peaceful atmosphere.
In recent years, I’ve become a regular in the press tent at North Africa’s largest golf tournament every February, and through that I’ve gotten to know Rabat quite well. Media representatives fly into Rabat (or Casablanca, an hour’s drive away) from all corners of the world. Distant places such as Côte d’Ivoire, Cameroon, Dubai, and Florida are represented in the media tent, alongside the regulars from Europe.
It was Morocco’s late King Hassan II who became hooked on golf and had several courses built throughout the country. Today, the country’s foremost golf jewel is Royal Dar Es Salam, where the most challenging course (the Red Course) ranks number one on several well-known rankings. Morocco’s Prince Moulay Rachid, younger brother of King Mohammed VI, now hosts the tournament.
Those of us on the media team shuttle back and forth between the Sofitel hotel and the courses at Royal Dar Es Salam. This year, I was invited by the national radio channel Radio Mars to be interviewed in their studio, where they broadcast live every day during the tournament. The conversation ranged from Morocco’s performance as a host nation (the answer: the Moroccans we meet have a unique charm, warmth, and hospitality that is deeply touching) to the belief that Vikings may have landed on this coast just over 1,000 years ago. Hopefully, today’s “Vikings” behave a little better than their predecessors.
Royal Dar Es Salam
Royal Dar Es Salam is, of course, the most prestigious golf club in Morocco. We follow our golfing idols through beautiful surroundings—parkland courses set in forests of cork oak, eucalyptus, and palm trees. There are so few spectators that you get much closer to the players than at any other tournament I’ve attended. Many of golf’s biggest senior names compete here, including Padraig Harrington, Ernie Els, and Miguel Ángel Jiménez. Next year, when the tournament celebrates its 50th anniversary, there has been some mention of the possibility of persuading Tiger to play—he also turns 50 next year. We’ll see if they can put enough money in the pot!
The two tournaments—the Hassan II Trophy (for senior men on the Champions Tour) and the Lalla Meryem Cup—take place simultaneously, the only professional event in the world where men’s and women’s tournaments are held in parallel. From Norway, there are usually a few women competing in the Lalla Meryem Cup, which is the season opener for the Ladies European Tour. This year, two Norwegian players participated: Tina Mazarino from Kjekstad Golf Club and Dorthea Forbrigd from Oslo Golf Club (the same club as me).
It’s a week I always look forward to—not only because of my interest in golf. When we in the media are not at the golf course, we continue getting to know Rabat and the surrounding area better.
Rabat’s quiet charm
Rabat is a refined and tranquil city that offers a blend of history, culture, and coastal charm with a certain European elegance. As the capital, it is the country’s political and diplomatic center, home to government institutions, the royal palace, and numerous embassies. It is a place of diplomacy and history, where daily life moves at a comfortable pace.
Of course, no trip to Morocco is complete without a visit to the souks. Rabat’s medina is calmer and less touristy than those in Marrakech or Fez. Here you can shop for traditional Moroccan goods such as carpets, leather bags, and ceramics. Try local street food like maakouda (potato fritters) or a fresh sfenj (Moroccan doughnut). Argan oil, extracted from Moroccan trees, is also a sought-after product, known for both its culinary and cosmetic qualities.
White marble, panoramic views
Rabat’s landmarks include the iconic Hassan Tower, an unfinished minaret from the 12th century. Across the square from the tower stands the famous Mausoleum of Mohammed V, where King Hassan II also rests. The monument is an elegant masterpiece of white marble with an emerald-green roof.
The historic Kasbah of the Udayas features Andalusian architecture in blue and white within its walls. From here, you can look down at the beach, where waves attract surfers year-round. The kasbah is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. From its terrace, you get a magnificent panoramic view of the Atlantic Ocean. The staircase leading down from the kasbah to the entrance of the medina is also known in film history—it’s where Tom Cruise drove a BMW down the steps, chased by villains on motorcycles, in Mission Impossible: Rogue Nation.
Wellness and relaxation in Rabat
For those seeking pure relaxation, Rabat is a full-fledged option. Weekly or monthly passes are available at The Club wellness center at Royal Dar Es Salam. The spa facilities are excellent, offering everything from deep tissue massage to traditional Moroccan hammam treatments, hydrotherapy, physiotherapy, and personalized wellness programs. What may set the place apart are its advanced treatment options, including cryotherapy—where extreme cold is said to promote muscle growth and reduce inflammation.
Bahia by the coast
Another highlight of our trip is a round of golf at Bahia Golf Beach, a beautiful coastal course about 45 minutes south of Rabat, near Bouznika. With its lush, well-maintained fairways, it’s a place that reminds you why golf in Morocco is such a pleasure—especially at this time of year, when one is eager to escape icy roads back home.
Some members of our group rented a car the next day and drove inland, up into the mountains, for a day at Michlifen Resort & Golf. There are several golf courses in the area, and I look forward to exploring even more next year. I’ve played a great deal of golf in Morocco—mostly around Marrakech, which boasts about a dozen courses. I’ve also played the Gary Player-designed Mogador course in Essaouira, a coastal town further south.
Each year, I understand a little more of what makes Rabat and its surroundings so special. I think I’ll need to stay an extra week next year and explore even more.
